The Dirty Dozen: The Watches That Went to War
Short summary of story:
During World War II, precision and reliability were critical - not just for soldiers but for the tools they carried. The Dirty Dozen watches were born out of necessity, designed to withstand the harshest battlefield conditions while maintaining impeccable accuracy. Commissioned by the British Ministry of Defence and built by twelve renowned watchmakers, these timepieces became legends in military horology. Today, their legacy lives on, inspiring collectors, enthusiasts, and modern tributes that honor their timeless design and resilience.
The Dirty Dozen: The Watches That Went to War
If you have even a passing interest in military watches, you’ve likely heard of the legendary Dirty Dozen - a collection of timepieces born out of necessity during the chaos of World War II. These were not luxury accessories or fashion statements. They were tools of war, issued to soldiers who relied on them in life-or-death situations.
A Watch for the Battlefield
Before the British Ministry of Defence (MoD) issued standardised wristwatches, soldiers carried whatever personal timepieces they could afford. But war is no place for fragile heirlooms. The unpredictable and brutal conditions of combat required something more - something robust, precise, and reliable. In response, the MoD developed a strict set of specifications for what would become the WWW (Watches, Wristlet, Waterproof), the foundation of the Dirty Dozen.
These specifications ensured that the watches were:
- Legible: A black dial with Arabic numerals, seconds at 6 o’clock, and railroad-style minute markings.
- Luminous: Radium-coated hands and markers for visibility in darkness.
- Shockproof and waterproof: A rugged case with a water-resistant crown and shatterproof Perspex crystal.
- Highly accurate: Precision mechanical movements built to military standards.
With British watchmakers focused on naval and aviation instruments, the MoD turned to neutral Switzerland, inviting manufacturers to produce these battle-ready watches. In the end, eleven Swiss brands and one British company, Vertex, answered the call. Together, they supplied an estimated 145,000 watches to the British military.
The Twelve Who Served
The manufacturers who contributed to this war effort became part of watchmaking history:
- Buren (11,000)
- CYMA (20,000)
- Eterna (5,000)
- Grana (1,000-5,000)
- Jaeger-LeCoultre (6,000)
- Lemania (10,000)
- Longines (8,000)
- IWC (5,000)
- Omega (25,000)
- Record (25,000)
- Timor (13,000)
- Vertex (15,000)
Some of these brands have faded into obscurity, while others remain among the most prestigious names in horology. Regardless of their fate, the watches they built served soldiers in the field, ticking away in the trenches, on the march, and in the cockpit.
Reimagining the Dirty Dozen for Today
The influence of the Dirty Dozen watches is undeniable. Their DNA can be seen in countless military-inspired designs, and for watch enthusiasts, they represent the pinnacle of wartime functionality.
As a brand deeply passionate about tool and service watches, we have often asked ourselves: What if?
What if we built a modern tribute to these historic timepieces—not just as a nod to the past but as a testament to the soldiers who depended on them? The challenge is always whether to follow the original specifications exactly or to update them with modern technology while preserving the essence of what made the originals great.
We chose a balanced approach: maintaining the original case sizes while incorporating modern, reliable movement technology. Accuracy remains as critical today as it was on the battlefield, but advancements allow us to provide it with even greater precision and longevity.
Built to Last, Designed to Serve
The Dirty Dozen watches of World War II were designed with a brutal reality in mind: they weren’t meant to last forever, just like the men who wore them. Soldiers in active combat had tragically short life expectancies, and their issued gear reflected that harsh truth.
Our modern Dirty Dozen tribute watches are crafted with a different philosophy—one of endurance. We use materials and engineering techniques that ensure these timepieces can withstand the rigors of an active lifestyle, not just for a few years but for generations. Many of our customers have told us that they hope to pass these watches down as heirlooms, a stark contrast to their wartime predecessors.
The spirit of the Dirty Dozen lives on—not just in history books or collectors' safes, but on the wrists of those who appreciate their legacy.
This is our way of honouring the watches, the makers, and most importantly, the soldiers who depended on them.